When you think of Spain, your mind probably goes to tapas, flamenco, and sun-bathed beaches on the Costa del Sol. But just north of all that, tucked between the Bay of Biscay and the Picos de Europa mountains, lies a region that’s still flying under most travellers’ radar: Cantabria.
If you’re looking for green landscapes, quiet villages, epic hikes, and some of the best food in northern Spain, this region will deliver. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Cantabria, and why it might become your new favourite place in Spain.
1. Explore the Picos de Europa – Spain’s answer to the Alps
Let’s start with the showstopper. The Picos de Europa National Park is a dream for anyone who loves the outdoors. The sharp mountain peaks, deep river gorges, alpine meadows, and winding roads make the journey just as breathtaking as the destination.
Base yourself in the village of Potes, the perfect gateway to the mountains. From here, you can:
- Ride the Fuente Dé cable car up to 1,800 metres for panoramic views
- Hike the famous Cares Gorge trail between Cantabria and Asturias
- Take scenic drives through terrain that feels more Swiss Alps than Spanish siesta
Whether you’re into long hikes or slow road trips with coffee stops, you should not miss this part of Cantabria.
2. Try Orujo – the local drink with a kick
After a day in the mountains, do what the locals do: sip a glass of orujo. This powerful spirit is distilled from grape skins and often flavoured with herbs, cream, or coffee. It’s traditional, it’s strong, and it’ll warm you up after a cool walk in the mountains.
If you’re visiting in autumn, check out the Orujo Festival in Potes, where distillers bring their homemade versions and the whole village turns into one big celebration. It’s one of those authentic experiences you don’t find in more tourist-heavy places.
3. Get lost in villages that time forgot
Cantabria is full of storybook villages, each with its character. Here are a few that are well worth the detour:
- Potes – Small, historic, and surrounded by mountains. An excellent base for outdoor adventures.
- Santillana del Mar is on the list of “the prettiest villages in Spain”, and it lives up to the name. The village’s nickname is the “village of three lies”. Santillana del Mar means – saint, flat and by sea, but none of this is true. The village has no saints, it is hilly, and it is not by the sea.
- Comillas – A relaxed coastal town with sandy beaches and surprising architecture.
- San Vicente de la Barquera is a picturesque, old fishermen’s village.
These places are ideal if you love slow travel, local life, and discovering places that aren’t overrun with tour groups.
4. See Gaudí’s lesser-known masterpiece in Comillas
Most people associate Antoni Gaudí with Barcelona, but one of his earliest works sits right here in Cantabria. El Capricho de Gaudí in Comillas is a whimsical villa built for a music lover, full of sunflower tiles, curved lines, and all the creative flourishes Gaudí is known for. Book a guided tour of the house through Viator, as the owner’s history is so heartbreaking.
The house is open to visitors and gives you a quieter, more intimate look at his work, without the crowds. Plus, the town of Comillas itself is a lovely place to spend the day.
5. Visit caves older than civilisation
You wouldn’t expect one of the world’s most important prehistoric sites to be in a quiet part of northern Spain, but Altamira Cave proves otherwise. The original cave is closed to the public to preserve the 20,000-year-old wall paintings, but the replica in the nearby museum is incredibly detailed and well worth a visit.
If you’re more into geology than history, head to El Soplao Cave, famous for its surreal rock formations and underground galleries. Even if caves aren’t usually your thing, these will change your mind. You are not allowed to take pictures here, so if you have a media pass, bring it with you and ask politely in advance.
Cantabria has around 6,000 caves, which is impressive in itself. Even if you are not interested in cold, wet, dark spaces, a visit to one of the above is a must. You will not regret it, I promise you.
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6. Eat like a local (and bring stretchy trousers)
Cantabrian cuisine is comforting, rustic, and precisely what you want after a day of hiking or exploring. Here are a few dishes and local products to try:
- Cocido lebaniego – A rich chickpea stew with chorizo, blood sausage, and meat. This one will warm up every bone in your body after that windy hike.
- Queso de tres leches – Creamy cheese made from cow, goat, and sheep milk.
- Anchovies from Santoña – Salty, delicate, and nothing like the ones you get on pizza.
- Crema de orujo – Like Baileys, but smoother and more flavourful.
Pair it all with cider from Asturias or local wine, and you’ve got a meal to remember.
7. Discover wild beaches and quiet coastlines
The beaches in Cantabria are nothing like the ones in the south—and that’s a good thing. They’re wilder, greener, and a lot less crowded. Perfect for morning walks, salty swims, or just a nap in the dunes.
Some favourites include:
- Playa de Oyambre – Near Comillas. Great views, peaceful vibes, and lots of space.
- Playa de Langre – Surrounded by cliffs and popular with surfers.
- Playa de Berria – Long, clean, and right next to the wetlands of Santoña.
These beaches feel untouched and natural, ideal if you’re looking to slow down and recharge.
Where should you stay in Cantabria?
Have a night or two in Santillana del Mar, at Parador Santillana Gil Blas. Parador chain is the government-owned chain of hotels. Each hotel in the chain has at least one of the features required to be part of Parador. They have either amazing views, are old castles or fortresses, serve local food and employ local people. This is sustainability at its absolute best!
In Santander, you can indulge yourself in luxury at Gran Hotel Sardinero, next to the casino and beautiful El Sardinero beach.
Places to eat in Cantabria
If you are planning to go on a hike or take the cable car for the views, you should book lunch at the Hotel del Oso. Book Cocido lebaniego, a rich chickpea stew with chorizo, blood sausage, and meat, the traditional dish in the areas between the mountains. It is heavy on meat and broth, but after that windy trip, you will need it.
If you are visiting El Soplao cave, you can have lunch at La Ostreria when you are done. The views here are beautiful and the food is even better. The restaurant is in the village of San Vicente de la Barquera, a picturesque, old fishermen’s village. It is a perfect stop on your way to El Capricho de Gaudí in Comillas.
The capital, Santander, is full of great restaurants. Have lunch at the Centro Botin, which you can not miss on the boardwalk. The cafe at the centre is perfect if you are visiting this museum.
The food hall Mercado del Este, on one of the main streets, is where you will see locals. Here are lots of small shops where you can get sandwiches, sardines, cheeses, wine and lots of Spanish and Cantabrian small dishes.
I hope you stay for at least two nights in Santander because these two restaurants are worth it. Umma in Santander serves delicious Cantabrian food in a Michelin-starred manner. They do not have a Michelin star, but the restaurant is included in the Bib Gourmand guide. They do not have a website, but you can send them an email or call them to book.
La Caseta de Bombas is an excellent down-to-earth restaurant that specialises in daily catches, among other things. You will find the restaurant overlooking the sea and run by the chef who takes social responsibility very seriously. He lets people who, for some reason, are “excluded” from society work in his restaurants, and his philosophy is that people are the soul of the place. The food and atmosphere were also excellent, so the whole concept made me love this restaurant most of all.
Final thoughts: Is Cantabria worth visiting?
Absolutely. If you’re looking for somewhere off the beaten path, with a mix of mountains, coast, culture, and cuisine Cantabria delivers. It’s easy to reach from Bilbao or Santander, and makes a great addition to a northern Spain road trip.
You’ll leave with muddy hiking boots, a full belly, and a camera roll full of stone houses, cliffside beaches, and sunset views you didn’t expect from Spain.
If you are interested in Northern Spain, read my post about Oviedo, the capital of Asturias.
