Imagine ancient cathedrals, sacred caves, relics of Jesus, Roman hunting lodges, modern art, and even traces of Franco’s legacy—all wrapped up in Asturias, a region in northern Spain unlike any other. Untouched by the Moors, Asturias stands apart with its unique blend of history and culture. It’s here that the Spanish monarchy began and where locals returning from the Americas brought back vibrant influences that make this region so intriguing today.
Tacked between Cantabria, Castilla y Leon, Galicia, and the Cantabrian Sea, Asturias is a gem for everyone who loves slow travel filled with history, art, and old traditions. This region is totally different from its neighbors and the rest of the country, which already makes it worth visiting. If you are coming to Asturias for the first time, I recommend you visit Cavadong, Oviedo, Gijon, and Aviles.
Asturias is rich in history and culture and has a vibrant culinary scene. Try slow-cooked beans with various types of meat, including chorizo, black pudding, and bacon, which create a rich and satisfying dish. Or try one of the traditional cideries, which are very different from cideries in Basque country. The concept of ciderias in Asturias is similar to tapas but with dishes from north Spain. In earlier days, the farmer invited all the workers to a feast after the apple harvest was finished. So be aware that you get a lot of food when you visit a cideria in Asturias. Don’t forget to have one of Spain’s best blue cheeses, Cabrales, made and aged in the caves of Picos de Europa. And remember to see how the water pours the cider from the top of his head straight into the glass without even looking. That’s impressive.
Oviedo – a capital for history and art lovers
Oviedo may be the capital of Asturias, but it’s not the biggest city in the region. Still, it offers much for art lovers. Four fascinating museums feature modern art alongside ancient Roman artifacts, making it easy to lose yourself in a day of exploring. It’s a captivating mix of old and new. The city is also dotted with sculptures, making spending a half-day on a sculpture hunt easy. I recommend staying in Oviedo for at least one night.
Oviedo doesn’t have access to the sea, so here you can focus on history, art and food.
Archaeological Museum
Set in a former Benedictine monastery dating to the 16th century, this museum is free to enter and takes you back to Spain’s deep past. Here, you’ll find stone statues of Spanish heroes, each accompanied by a faithful dog, a reminder that these loyal animals were often the only ones a king could fully trust.
Fine Arts Museum
The Asturias Fine Arts Museum stands on the square facing the cathedral in a striking white building with glass facades. You won’t miss that! Open every day except Mondays, the museum spans three floors and three buildings. You’ll find masterpieces by Picasso, Dalí, and other renowned Spanish and international artists here, with collections from the 14th to the 21st century, including ancient Roman pieces. Entry is also free.
Oviedo Cathedral
Built in Gothic style, the majestic Oviedo Cathedral dates back to 781. It is also known as the Cathedral of San Salvador and was built over several centuries. When Alfonso II expanded Oviedo Cathedral in 802, he declared Oviedo the capital of Asturias.
The cathedral’s most iconic feature is the Holy Chamber (Cámara Santa), a UNESCO-listed treasure trove of religious artifacts and relics, some dating back to the 9th century. This is where you will find something truly rare—a sacred cloth believed to have covered Jesus’ face in his tomb. Unlike the Shroud of Turin, this cloth is much smaller and bears stains that are thought to be consistent with blood marks. Pilgrims have visited this relic for centuries, which remains one of Spain’s most revered religious artifacts.
One interesting detail about the Holy Chamber is its role in protecting relics during invasions. Asturias, never conquered by the Moors, became a safe haven for precious religious items, many of which still remain here. In addition to the shroud, the Cámara Santa houses crosses, jewel-encrusted shrines, and ancient manuscripts, each telling its own story of faith and survival.
Whether you’re drawn to its art, history, or spiritual significance, Oviedo Cathedral is an essential stop in Asturias.
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Hunting Lodge and Secret Rooms
Just a short drive from Oviedo, the Santa María del Naranco hunting lodge sits quietly on the slopes of Mount Naranco, a relic of the pre-Romanesque era built in the 9th century under King Ramiro I of Asturias. Although modest in size, this lodge was architecturally advanced for its time, with intricate stonework and elegant arches that suggest it was more than a simple hunting retreat—it was a royal residence, military training ground, and a place meant to impress visiting dignitaries with its beauty and sophistication.
Originally, Santa María del Naranco wasn’t intended to be a church but a palace hall or pavilion, serving as part of a larger complex with religious and defensive functions. What makes this lodge so unique are its secret rooms and cutting-edge structural design for its time.
As a royal residence during a period of frequent conflicts, the lodge was designed with hidden escape routes and rooms to protect the king and his escort. While not all of these passageways have survived, historical records suggest that Santa María del Naranco had defensive elements built into its structure—potentially for quick exits in case of an attack. Narrow corridors, steep staircases, and strategically placed alcoves show that the building wasn’t just beautiful; it was a safe retreat.
The upper floor has alcoves that might look purely decorative but were, in fact, functional. These alcoves served as watchpoints or private spaces where King Ramiro’s guests could observe the surrounding landscape or hold discreet conversations. Additionally, these spaces would have been ideal for placing candles or lamps, creating a flickering glow during evening gatherings, and giving the lodge a mystical atmosphere.
Sculptures as Symbols of Everyday Life and Tradition
Oviedo is famously rich in sculptures, with over a hundred statues across its streets, plazas, and parks. The spread of sculptures in Oviedo started as part of a broader effort to celebrate and reflect the city’s culture, history, and everyday life. Many sculptures represent historical figures, literary characters, and cultural icons important to Oviedo and the region of Asturias. For locals, the sculptures bring up a sense of identity and pride, celebrating their unique heritage while adding a touch of charm and intrigue to the city.
Famous sculptures in Oviedo
La Regenta, one of the city’s most famous sculptures, represents the protagonist from Leopoldo Alas’ celebrated novel, La Regenta, set in Oviedo. This life-sized statue of the character stands near the cathedral, inviting people into the world of Asturias’ literature.
Woody Allen also has a statue in Oviedo. After winning the Prince of Asturias Award for the Arts in 2002, Allen, who famously praised Oviedo as “a fairy-tale city,” was immortalized in bronze. His statue adds a contemporary and international touch to Oviedo’s collection.
Fernando Botero’s “La Maternidad” adds a touch of the artist’s signature style to Oviedo’s streets with its soft, rounded forms.
The “Sculpture Route”
With so many sculptures, Oviedo has become known for its Sculpture Route (La Ruta de las Esculturas), which takes visitors around the city’s most notable statues. It’s a fun and interactive way to explore Oviedo.
Where to eat in Oviedo
El Fondín de Trascorrales
El Fondin is a must when in Ovieod. This cozy restaurant is located in the picturesque Plaza Trascorrales. El Fondín de Trascorrales is known for its fabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew), a regional staple cooked with local sausages and meats. This is the place to taste traditional flavors in a cozy atmosphere with a bit of creativity.
Sidreria La Finca is for those who want a traditional meal at a Sideria that is popular with locals. Cider barrels are built into the walls, long tables for the whole family, and lovely Spanish chatter. Remember that ciderias serve dishes as tapas, so you can order several to get a taste of Asturias. One of their specialties is cachopos – flat beef meat filled with blue cheese, ham or mushrooms.
If you are tired of traditional Asturian food, try La Corte de Pelayo, which serves European food with a Spanish taste. However, if you still want bean stew or cachopos, you can also have them here. La Corte del Pelayo has won first prize for its cachopos in the Asturian championship and was a finalist for its bean stew.
Where to stay in Oviedo
I stayed at NH Oviedo Principado*, which is right in the city center. It is within two minutes’ walk of the Oviedo Cathedral and the old town. The rooms are spacious, and the breakfast is good.
If you want to book a guide while in Oviedo, I can recommend Ernesto from Show Me Asturias. He is knowledgeable and easygoing, speaks English well, and has a great sense of humor.
If you are interested in more content about Northern Spain you should read my post about another hidden gem in Northern Spain – Cantabria.
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Links marked with * are affiliate links. If you book through this link, I will receive a small commission from the provider. However, your price will not be affected at all. This small commission will help me run this blog.
